The TEEN Vogue handbook An insider's guide to careers in fashion

DESIGNERS Rodarte "Hone your basic skills. You have to be able to sketch. The two important things for a designer are carrying an idea and being able to translate the idea." (Kate Mulleavy) Marc Jacobs "Get your stuff out there! When Jacobs created his first line of sweaters, his pals wore them all around town. Photos of the knits ended up in the newspaper, which generated buzz about the designer." "I always reduce my job to one line: I just make stuff. Maybe that's demystifying the whole thing, but that's what it comes down to." Thakoon Panichgul "You have to look at fashion from the perspective of high-end editors and publications. Read all the magazines - commercial and underground - and your voice will evolve from what you see there." Alexander Wang Learn the ins and outs of the industry: "When I was

starting out, I went on style.com every morning. If you know who's growing and who's launching, you can find where the opportunities are." "In the beginning, we didn't know anything about line sheets or market dates, so we had to figure it all out throgh trial and error. But because I didn't know anything, I could just do what I wanted, and I was free to think a little more openly." Tory Burch Have a clear idea of what you'd like to offer visually: "When I started this company, I asked myself what was going to make it stand apart. You've got to have a point of view." Phillip Lim A job in retail is a great first step for aspiring designers. "Working in a store, you're always around clothes. You touch them, see them, try them on, see others try them on. You pick things up by osmosis." "You cannot teach design. You can teach techniques and procedures, but design is inherent. I don't care what anyone says - you either have it or you don't. Don't get me wrong: It's great to study fashion and to know the basics, like how to sew and make patterns. You should know about textiles, and you should go to school for that, to hone in on your interests. But if you never have the privilege of going to design school, yet you feel that fashion is what you should do, don;t let a lack of

education prevent you. There is more than one way." "When I look back, I think that being a little naive was actually a positive thing, because I had no fear. Sometimes, when you know too much, you can overdo it." Patrick Robinson "Fashion is a tough field, and there are only so many jobs, so you have to know what you want and really go after it. You can't give up." "Opportunity doesn't always come dressed exactly the way you fantasize it will: it comes dressed as something unexpected, something maybe you don't even wantunless you're smart enough to see how it could lead you down a different path. I've interviewed many young people, and I can always tell who the smart ones are because they're unafraid to embrace a challenge that's a little different from what they were looking for. They'll take a job in accessories, even though they really want a job in womenswear, because they can see that if they prove themselves, they'll move forward." "I believed in myself to an almost obnoxious degree - I had that youthful drive, that feeling that I could fix everything just by touching it. But I also studied: I went to the stores, looked at the product, and knew exactly what I wanted to do with the brand." What are the challenges you face now, designing for a

large, lower-priced brand? It's hard because it's huge. It's global! But I cope by picturing it as just one store, one perfect Gap. If I design everything for that one store and fix that one store, then I can fix them all. That's an extension of what I tell my designers: I want them to make clothes they want to wear." "I am more interested in hiring people who can really answer those questions than people who just say what they think I want them to say. I'm looking for individuals, because individuals make the best designers." "To an interview you need to dress in a style that works for the brand you're interviewing for. If you're going into the Gap, you should look like the Gap. But don't come in dressed like one of the ads. You need to express your own style as well." "I think the most important thing is really to be in the world. Look at what's going on outside, in the street, and be a part of that. That's fascinating. When we all look at the same books, read the same magazines, and watch the same movies, that's when fashion gets dull. You can admire people, but don't study them. Of course I have books that I am inspired by, buy you need to figure out your own favorite books. When people who are young really pop out in the fashion world, it's because they're telling a different story." Reed Krakoff

"I think that anyone who wants to be in the fashion industry needs to start by working in retail. My first jobs in the New York City were at Valentino and Versace boutiques. While at the time I was just trying to pay my bills and maybe get some clothes out of it, I actually found retail to be a fantastic experience. When you work in a store, you get to see the whole operation: how they sale, how they dress the windows, how they order inventory. And you basically learn why people shop why they buy things and why they don't. It's important to understand these mechanics, because no matter what you do in fashion, you're going to be involved in selling. Understanding what the customer sees and experiences is critical." "People who are successful are not always the most creative, the most artistic, but they're honest with themselves about what they can do." "You better learn fast. You have to put in your time. If you work hard and do a good job, then you'll succeed." "Coach was one-seventh of the size it is today, and as I checked out the stores, I thought about what it could be. The job, as executive creative director, seemed perfectly tailored to all my different experiences. It just felt right. Once you're a but further into your career, looking for a job can be a lot like looking for a girlfriend or a boyfriend. You can't really control it, and you need to stay open. This job came out of nowwhere, and the company wasn't even on the list of companies I had

imagined working for. But I saw it as an opportunity for me to grow." "I always say that my first job is to keep people a little bit uncomfortable with where we're going. If you're too comfortable, then what you're doing probably isn't different enough from what you did last year. You have to have an environment in which you're able to experiment, because the key is to keep the customer excited about the brand." "Stay open, work hard, do a good job, and be nice." Proenza Schouler Be prepared to make a life change. McCollough and Hernandez transferred to Parsons after starting out at colleges in San Francisco and Miami, respectively, once they decided to pursue careers in design. What do you look for when hiring assistants? "It sounds shallow, but it's really the way people present and carry themselves. You need to have taste. Taste and education. It's as simple as that. It's important to have a broad knowledge of both fashion history and contemporary fashion. You need to be aware of what's happening and what other brands are doing. At the same time, you have to be able to separate yourself from that and stay true to yourself. We ask them about clothes, their sketches, what they get inspired by. You want someone who can draw. But like Lazaro said, it's also just a matter of who fits in. If

someone walks in wearing a suit, we know this isn't the right place for him. Lazaro and I live in jeans and Tshirts!"

Justin Giunta Make the most of whatever resources you can pull together right now. "Don't wait until you think you have some genius idea before presenting yourself to the fashion world - show them as you go." "You may have 95 doors close on you before two open. You must be willing to walk out of a store that doesn't want your stuff with the confidence than your work is good and someone will buy it." Blake Mycoskie Be tenacious. "One thing that has allowed me to have some level of success is that I am fine with cold-calling people. It doesn't scare me to call someone who has no idea who I am and say, 'I'd love to take you to lunch.'" Karl Lagerfeld What can young people do to distinguish themselves at work? What are some mistakes you see? Be polite, interested, and always in a good mood. Pretension is the worst. You also must be ready to help out in areas where you never expected to be involved. Do you have a list of movies, books, artwork, or other

inspirations you suggest young people look at? Be informed, not only about fashion but also about art, history and music. Bring the fresh air of the world of youth to a studio, but don't think only because you are funny that you will be a hit - know better. In the days of the internet it's easy to be informed. Also, speak other languages. Show that you are interested in things, that you want to learn. And never look bored. It can be boring sometimes in the world of fashion. What makes a person successful-or not - in the fashion industry? Ideas, good ideas and enthusiasm, loving the job, working hard, and never giving up. Talent is like a muscle: it has to be worked on and be adaptable and flexible. Personal charisma comes a little later, and it helps, too- but it must be handled carefully. Don't play the star before you are one. That is a great danger for young designers. Let other people tell you that you are a star. It's not for you to tell them. They would already have noticed. Don't let your ego get ahead of your fame. No matter how talented you are, Lagerfeld warns, overconfidence can turn people off to your designs before they even really have the chance to see them. Break into the industry with these tips: - Design school can sharpen skills and create industry connections, but it's by no means essential. Traditional education has it's merits too, like informing your

creativity or boosting your business prowess. - Get a job in retail. You'll learn what makes shoppers tick and be able to network with people who can help you down the road by offering feedback on your line or pointing you toward internships with designers. - Find ways to incorporate your passion - whether it's for the environment, a charity, ot the arts-into your work. It will only add to your vision. - Intern! It's worth making sacrifices to ensure success. real world experience can teach you things you can't learn in school, especially at a smaller laber, where you'll be exposed to several levels of the company. - Know your customer. Create an inspiration book or board with visual cues. - If you have no business background, consider taking a few summer courses or checking out books about the topic. Being a designer involves much more than just sewing and sketching. - Pay attention to industry news so that you can spot the trends but remaiin true to your vision. Plenty of labels found success by going against the prevailing styles of the moment.

EDITORS Amy Astley "Network like crazy, because even if you don't know anyone in the industry, someone in your life might know of someone who can help".

Having a connection in HR is helpful, but it only gets your feet in the door. Once you got that first job, what did you do to make yourself stand out? "I worked hard! I am a very can-do person. Anything that my boss wanted done - even things that she hadn't thought of - I would do as well as I could. I remember one instance in which I had to write a very delicately worded letter to a reader, and I really labored over it. Then my boss came to see me with that letter in her hand, and she said, "You are a good writer, and I can see that you love it. We've got to get you writing more." And she did - I started getting small assignments, stories about desert plates or wasterbaskets, and I took them seriously. Early in your career you may be asked to do things that you don't feel are worthy of your education or that don't seem explicitly related to your career goals - but if you do them well, they can inspire people to put their faith in you and give you the work you do want. Especially when you're at the intern or assistant level, your job is really just to make other people's jobs easier. So if you soak it all up, pay attention to everything, and do things that nobody else thought of, then you're more likely to get promoted. That's who I want to promote: people who solve problems and are enthusiastic and eager to take on more work, more responsability. What else can an intern or assistant do to increase her chances of moving ahead? Remember to keep your interactions professional.

You're at work, and it's not always glamorous - it's not The Hills, and you're not making thousands of dollars an episode. Be prepared to arrive at work before your boss does and to stay until after she leaves, so that you're always there. Don't ask for favors or feel entitled: stay focused on what you have to offer the company. I have seen si many promising employees deril themselves by becoming too caught up in the social aspect of the office and the industry. Remember that you are there to work and to produce. Also, don;t just think above how to make yourself stand out. Study the people you admire. From their editing style to small details like phone manners or thank you notes, what makes them successful? Many women have been mentors to me, including dance teachers, House & Garden editors, and Anna Wintour. "Keep an open mind and be curious about everything. The beauty of magazines is that there are so many different paths forward. Mine wasn't direct, but it made me a better editor." "I had no experience in the beauty department. I've always thought of myself as a journalist, first and foremost, with a deep passion for style - fashion, beauty, decorating. I could write about anything or anyone style related. So I told that to my interviewer, and it was the right answer. It should never be just "I love make up" or "I live for fashion". At magazines we look for curious, educated people who can place trends into a context and give banal things - like lipstick and shoes -

journalistic credence. Any parting words of advice? "People need to assess what their strenghs are fairly soon after they start working, to face reality and see where they stand. I had to do this for myself at age eighteen, when I realized that I wasn't going to be able to dance on the level that I wanted. So perhaps it was natural for me to be brutally honest with myself-but I think it's an important thing for everyone to do. You may think that you want to be a stylist but then you realize that you're actually more suited to being a market editor. Don't feel that you have to be a superstar-there are so few! Instead, try to be a part of the team and focus on the joint goals, not just individual glory. All magazines are a group effort and are only as good as the sum of their parts. If you find you're having a hard time with something, realize that it may not be the right fit - don't be afraid to try something new! That's the beauty of magazines: there isn't any one path in our business. It's not like being a doctor or a lawyer, where you go to a specific school and learn the trade. There are many different ways forward. Mine wasn't direct at all.