|
Ce message est en mode wiki. Tous les comptes de plus de 30 jours avec plus de 30 messages peuvent le modifier.
Parce qu 'il en fallait un. A vos aiguilles/crochets ! Sommaire :
Drôles d'animauxPoulpitoPar Praline   Code:
Modèle d'origine. Traduction par Praline : Le corps Tour 1 : chaîne de 2, 6 mailles serrées dans la deuxième maille à partir du crochet = 6 mailles serrées. Tour 2 : 2 mailles serrées dans chaque maille serrée tout le long = 12 ms Tour 3 : 1 maille serrée dans la maille serrée suivante + une augmentation , tout le long = 18 ms Tour 4 :1 ms dans les deux ms suivantes (chacune leur tour) + une augmentation --> tout le long = 24 ms Tours 5-6-7 : 1 maille serrée dans chaque maille serrée, tout le long. Tour 8 : 1 ms dans les deux ms suivantes (chacune leur tour) + une diminution, tout le long = 18 ms. Tour 9 : 1 ms dans la ms suivante + une diminution, tout le long = 12 ms. Garnir le corps Fixer les yeux si c'est avec attaches Tour 10 : Diminuer 6 fois = 6 ms. Tour 11: Diminuer 2 fois, faire une maille coulée, et rabattre. Les tentacules (en faire 8) Chaîne de 9, 3 ms dans la deuxième maille à partir du crochet, 3 ms dans la troisième, et ainsi de suite jusqu'à la septième incluse. 1 maille coulée chacune dans les deux dernières mailles. Rabattre. Note : si la première tentacule te semble trop courte, il suffit de faire une chaîne plus longue. Assemblage Coudre les tentacules sous le corps de Poulpito, broder, coller ou attacher les yeux et voila ! Poulpito-CthuluPar Sécotine   Code:
C'est le Poulpito de Praline avec les ailes réalisées à partir de ce modèle. Je suis nulle en traduction, et puis z'allez encore vous moquer de mon niveau d'anglais si je m'y essaye, mais Ô joie y'a un tutorial en images pour les ailes : http://cthulhucrochet.blogspot.com/2009/09/wing-tutorial-for-tiny-cthulhu.html Et youpi tralalou : la traduction en français : http://lesfeestisseuses.xooit.com/t6...u.htm?start=45 En joie ! CthuluPar Sécotine  Patron ici : http://cthulhucrochet.blogspot.com/2...e-pattern.html + liens donnés précédemment (voir "Poulpito-Cthulu"). Bunny Blob Code:
Materials: (00:11 in Part 1 Video Tutorial)
- Glue Gun Eyes [Look for "Amigurumi Glue Gun Eyes/Nose Tutorial" in Video Tutorials]
- Hot Glue Gun
- Yarn Needle
- E/4 - 3.5mm Crochet Hook
- Black Yarn/Thread
- Worsted Medium 4 Pink Yarn
Basic Knowledge: (00:55 in Part 1 Video Tutorial)
- Slip Knot
- Chain (ch)
- Single Crochet (sc)
- Increase (inc)
- Decrease (dec)
- Sew Things
BODY OF BUNNY (02:05 in Part 1 Video Tutorial)
Chain 2 to begin
Rnd 1: 6sc in 2nd ch from hook (6sc)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (12sc)
Rnd 3: *1sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc* around (18sc)
Rnd 4: *1sc in next 2 sc, 2sc in next sc* around (24sc)
Rnd 5-9: 1sc in each sc around (24sc)
Rnd 10: *1sc in next 3 sc, 1sc dec in next sc* around (20sc)
Sew on mouth of bunny (00:14 in Part 2 Video Tutorial)
Stuff bunny to your liking.
(Continuing BODY OF BUNNY 07:01 in Part 2 Video Tutorial)
Rnd 11: 1sc dec in each sc around (10sc)
Rnd 12: *1sc in next 2 sc, 1sc dec in next sc* around (8sc)
Rnd 13: 1sc dec in each sc around (4sc)
Rnd 14: 1sc dec in each sc and fasten off.
Glue eyes onto bunny (11:18 in Part 2 Video Tutorial)
EARS OF BUNNY (00:10 in Part 3 Video Tutorial)
Chain 2 to begin
Rnd 1: 6sc in 2nd ch from hook (6sc)
Rnd 2: *1sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc* around (9sc)
Rnd 3-6: 1sc in each sc around (9sc)
Flatten and shape into ear
Sew ears onto the body (04:12 in Part 3 Video Tutorial)
Make a pompom for the tail of bunny (08:21 in Part 3 Video Tutorial)
Glue pompom to back of bunny (13:19 in Part 3 Video Tutorial)
The End! (14:13 in Part 3 Video Tutorial)
Yay! You finished making a cute blob bunny!
(\_/)
(^.^)
(")(")
Nounours Code:
Head and Body: 1. 8 sc in Adjustable Ring (8) 2. Inc every sc (16) 3. Inc every other sc (24) 4. Inc every 3rd sc (32) 5. Inc every 4th sc (40) 6. Sc across (40) 7. Sc across (40) 8. Sc across (40) 9. Sc across (40) 10. Sc across (40) 11. Sc across (40) *if you're using safety eyes be sure to attach them around this point, a few rounds later and you won't be able to get inside* 12. Dec every 4th (32) 13. Dec every 3rd (24) 14. Dec every other (16) *now is a good time to stuff the head* 15. Dec every sc (8) 16. Sc around (8) 17. Inc every other (12) 18. Sc around (12) 19. Sc around (12) 20. Inc every 3rd (16) 21. Sc around (16) 22. Sc around (16) 23. Sc around (16) 24. Inc every 4th (20) 25. Sc around (20) 26. Sc around (20) 27. Dec every 4th (16) 28. Dec every 3rd (12) *now is a good time to stuff the body* 29. Dec every other (8) Sew hole shut Ears (make 2) The ch 1 at the end of each row should not be counted as a stitch 1. 6 sc in Adjustable Ring, ch 1, turn 2. Inc every other sc, ch 1, turn (9) 3. Sc in every sc (9) *leave a long tail when tying off to attach ears to head* Arms (make 2) 1. 6 sc in Adjustable Ring 2. Inc every sc (12) 3. Sc around (12) 4. Sc around (12) 5. Dec every 3rd sc (9) 6. Sc around (9) 7. Dec every 3rd sc twice, sc last st (7) 8. Sc around (7) 9. Sc around (7) 10. Sc around (7) *stuff and crochet or sew closed, again, it's good to leave a long tail to use when sewing onto the body* Legs (make 2) 1. 8 sc in Adjustable Ring 2. Inc every sc (16) 3. Sc around (16) 4. Sc around (16) 5. Sc around (16) 6. Sc around (16) 7. Dec every 7th (14) 8. Sc around (14) 9. Dec every 3rd sc 3 times, sc last 2 sts (11) 10. Sc around (11) 11. Sc around (11) 12. Dec every 2nd sc 3 times, sc last 2 sts (8) 13. Sc around (8) 14. Sc around (8) 15. Sc around (8) *stuff and crochet or sew closed, leave a long tail to sew onto body* Amigurumi de personnages de jeux vidéosMario Mushroom Code:
Hook : 4.00mm Yarn : Worsted weight yarn, I used Red Heart, Soft Touch, color - Really Red/Off White/White. Polyester Stuffing (or whatever stuffing you would like to use) 12mm Safety Eyes (optional, I embroidered the eyes onto my mario mushroom) Finished Size : Approx 4" Yarn Needle Cap With red yarn rnd 1: sc6 into double magic ring. (6) rnd 2: 2sc into each st. (12) rnd 3: *sc, 2sc. repeat from* (18) rnd 4: *sc for 2, 2sc. repeat from* (24) rnd 5: *sc for 3, 2sc. repeat from* (30) rnd 6: *sc for 5, 2sc. repeat from* (35) rnd 7: *sc for 6, 2sc. repeat from* (40) rnd 8: *sc for 7, 2sc. repeat from* (45) rnd 9: *sc for 8, 2sc. repeat from* (50) rnd 10: sc in each st around. (50) rnd 11: *sc for 9, 2sc. repeat from* (55) rnd 12: sc in each st around. (55) rnd 13: *sc for 10, 2sc. repeat from* (60) rnd 14-15: sc in each st around. (60) rnd 16: *sc for 11, 2sc. repeat from* (65) rnd 17-18: sc in each st around. (65) rnd 19: *sc for 12, 2sc. repeat from* (70) rnd 20-25: sc in each st around. (70) rnd 26: *sc for 8, sc2tog. repeat from* (63) rnd 27: *sc for 7, sc2tog. repeat from* (56) rnd 28: *sc for 6, sc2tog. repeat from* (49) rnd 29: *sc for 5, sc2tog. repeat from* (42) rnd 30: *sc for 4, sc2tog. repeat from* (35) rnd 31: *sc for 3, sc2tog. repeat from* (28) rnd 32: *sc for 2, sc2tog. repeat from* (21) --stuff firm-- rnd 33: *sc, sc2tog. repeat from* (14) rnd 34: sc2tog in each st. (7) Fasten Off! Stem with off white yarn rnd 1: sc 49 st into row 28 of cap. (49) rnd 2: *sc for 6, 2sc. repeat from* (56) rnd 3: sc in each st around. (56) rnd 4: *sc for 6, sc2tog. repeat from* (49) rnd 5: *sc for 5, sc2tog. repeat from* (42) rnd 6: *sc for 4, sc2tog. repeat from* (35) rnd 7: *sc for 3, sc2tog. repeat from* (28) rnd 8: *sc for 2, sc2tog. repeat from* (21) --stuff firm-- rnd 9: *sc, sc2tog. repeat from* (14) rnd 10: sc2tog in each st around. (7) Fasten Off! Spots (make 4) with white yarn rnd 1: 6sc into double magic ring. (6) rnd 2: 2sc into each st around. (12) rnd 3: *sc, 2sc. repeat from* (18) rnd 4: *sc for 2, 2sc. repeat from* (24) rnd 5: *sc for 3, 2sc. repeat from* (30) rnd 6: *sc for 4, 2sc. repeat from* (36) rnd 7: *sc for 5, 2sc. repeat from* (42) Fasten Off! Sew spots to cap. Embroider eyes. Fireflower de côté Code:
MATERIALS: WW yarn in medium brown, white, yellow, orange, green G hook Fiberfill Small amount of dark brown felt (or dark brown yarn) Yarn Needle Sewing thread to match colors of yarn and sewing needle NOTES: Gauge isn't that important, as long as your hook and yarn choices result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing wont show through. Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in each round or row. BOX/CUBE: Box is worked in one piece. It's a little different than working a ball in rounds, the increases and decreases are different, but similar enough that it should be easy even for beginners with a little patience. I recommend joining your rounds, but if you are comfortable enough using continuous rounds, it's worth a try. [Dec3 instructions: Instead of making a normal dec stitch, this is a decrease over 3 sc. In front loops only: insert yarn thru front loop of first sc, y/o pull through, insert through FL of second sc y/o pull through, insert through FL of third sc y/o pull thru, y/o pull through all loops on hook.] Using med brown yarn: Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring. join with sl st to first sc do not turn, continue as if for a ball (4) Rnd 2: ch 1 3 sc in same stitch as join, and in each sc around, join with sl st to first sc of round (12) Rnd 3: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join. *3 sc next sc. sc in next 2 sc* repeat from * to * around to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in last sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round. (21) Rnd 4: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next sc. *3 sc next sc, sc in next 4 sc* repeat from * to * around to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 2 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round. (28) Rnd 5: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next 2 sc. *3 sc next sc, sc in next 6 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 3 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round ( 36) Rnd 6: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next 3 sc. *3 sc next sc, sc in next 8 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 4 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (44) Rnd 7: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next 4 sc. *3 sc next sc, sc in next 10 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 5 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (52) Rnd 8: (working in back loops only for this round) sc in each sc around, join with sl st. (52) Rnd 9-21: (working in both loops now) sc in each sc around joining each round with sl st to first sc of round (52) Rnd 22: (working in back loops only for this round) ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next 5 sc. *Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 10 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last 5 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (44) Rnd 23: (working in both loops again) ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next 4 sc. *Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 8 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last 4 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (36) Rnd 24: ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next 3 sc. * Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 6 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last 3 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (28) You probably will need to begin stuffing cube at this point (if you haven't already), and continue as you progress. Take care to stuff so that the shape of a cube is retained with minimum bulging of the sides (some bulging is natural) See the picture for references. Rnd 25: ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next sc 2 sc. *Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 4 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last 2 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (21) Rnd 26: ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next sc. *Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 2 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last sc, Join with sl st to first sc of round (12) Rnd 27: c1 Dec3 over next 3 sc around join with sl st to first sc of round (4). F/O leaving tail for finishing off. Using the blunt end of crochet hook, chopstick or eraser end of pencil, add any stuffing necessary to finish out cube shape. With yarn needle, weave the tail through the last 4 stitches of final round and pull to tighten. Tie off. If you like, you can add some weighted material to the cube to make in heavier. FireFlower makes a cute paperweight. FLOWER (make 2): Beginning with white: Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8) Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in each of the next 3 sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in each of next 3. Change to yellow yarn in last sc, F/O white yarn) (14) Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in last 2 sc. (20) Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in last 4 sc. Change to orange yarn in last stitch. F/O yellow yarn. (26) Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in last 6 sc. (32) Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (32) F/O. Place the two flower sides together (right side facing out) and sew together using whip stitch. Add small amount of stuffing evenly across the flower before closing. Using sewing thread (doubled) and needle, sew around the inside of each flower were the colors change going through both sides of flower (once around where white meets yellow, and once around where yellow meets orange) This will help to shape flower and keep stuffing from gathering in one corner later on. Add two eyes by using some black yarn and making a couple of whipstitches in the center of the white part of one side (see photo) STEM: Using green: Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring. (8) Rnd 2-16: sc in each sc around (8) Rnd 17: 2 sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (16) F/O and stuff stem firmly. It will help if you have a chopstick or use the eraser end of a pencil to move the stuffing down and help shape the stem. Sew the wide end of the stem to the back of the flower (see photos) LEAVES: Rnd 1: 4 sc in Magic Ring (4) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (8) Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10) Rnd 4: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc (12) Rnd 5: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc (14) Rnd 6-9: sc in each sc around (14) Rnd 10: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, dec over last 2 sc (12) Rnd 11: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc (10) Rnd 12: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, dec over last 2 sc (8) F/O. Flatten leaves and sew wider end to stem as shown in photos. Sew flower to center of top of cube/box. This might require some extra stitches to help it stand up. If you stuffed the stem very firmly, it should be able to stand fairly well on it's own. Cut 16 small circles from brown felt. Sew or glue to each corner of the sides of the cube/box as shown. If you prefer, you can use an F hook and dark brown yarn and make 5 sc in a magic ring, join and f/o, sew to the corners. Baby Octopus Amigurumi (Poulpe Zelda-Like) Code:
Hook : 4.00mm Yarn : Worsted weight yarn, I used Red Heart, Soft Touch, color - Grape. Polyester Stuffing (or whatever stuffing you would like to use) 12mm Safety Eyes (optional, I embroidered the eyes onto my baby octopus) Finished Size : Approx 4" Yarn Needle Body rnd 1: sc 6 into double magic ring. (6) rnd 2: 2sc into each st around. (12) rnd 3: *sc for 1sc, 2sc into the next st. repeat from* (18) rnd 4: *sc for 2sc, 2sc into the next st. repeat from* (24) rnd 5: *sc for 3sc, 2sc into the next st. repeat from* (30) rnd 6: *sc for 4sc, 2sc into the next st. repeat from* (36) rnd 7: *sc for 5sc, 2sc into the next st. repeat from* (42) rnd 8: *sc for 6sc, 2sc into the next st. repeat from* (48) rnd 9: *sc for 7sc, 2sc into the next st. repeat from* (54) rnd 10: *sc for 8sc, 2sc into the next st. repeat from* (60) rnd 11-18: sc in each st around. (60) rnd 19: *sc for 8sc, sc2tog. repeat from* (54) rnd 20: *sc for 7sc, sc2tog. repeat from* (48) rnd 21: *sc for 6sc, sc2tog. repeat from* (42) rnd 22: *sc for 5sc, sc2tog. repeat from* (36) rnd 23: *sc for 4sc, sc2tog. repeat from* (30) rnd 24: *sc for 3sc, sc2tog. repeat from* (24) If you are going to use safety eyes, I would suggest applying them now. I embroidered the eyes on my octopus on row 17 and 17sts apart. Stuff your work! rnd 25: *sc for 2sc, sc2tog. repeat from* (18) rnd 26: *sc for 1sc, sc2tog. repeat from* (12) rnd 27: sc2tog around. (6) Fasten Off! Legs (make 8) rnd 1: sc 6 into double magic ring. (6) rnd 2: 2sc into each st around. (12) rnd 3: *sc for 1sc, 2sc into next st. repeat from* (18) rnd 4-6: sc in each st around. (18) rnd 7: *sc for 1sc, sc2tog. repeat from* (12) Stuff your work! rnd 8: sc2tog around. (6) Fasten Off! Mouth (optional) rnd 1: ch 18, sl to beginning ch. (18) rnd 2-5: sc in each st around. (18) Change the color of your yarn. rnd 6-8: sc in each st around. (18) Fasten Off! Leave enough of a tail to sew the legs to the body. Flip the color of 3 rows to the inside. Sewing it all together Using the yarn needle, attatch the legs to the body (I attached the legs on at row 22 of the body). The method I used was to sew each leg on one at a time starting at : 12 o'clock 6 o'clock 9 o'clock 3 o'clock then simply attatching the remaining legs at : 1:30 4:30 7:30 10:30 I also ran a long piece of yarn through the middle of each leg and tied it tight so the legs wouldnt flop and roll around, this makes my octopus a lot more firm and sturdy and gives the legs a much more uniform look. I also attached the mouth on between rows 17 and 21 of the body. Weave in all loose ends. Now your baby octopus amigurumi should be complete! If you feel your baby octopus is still a little plain, feel free to add some cute little flowers or a ribbon for a scarf! Be creative! This crochet pattern is of original design by Lisa Beauchemin. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. All projects created from this pattern may not be sold or distributed for profit. If you wish to share this pattern, please feel free to link to the pattern, but please do not reprint it to your own site. Chocobo D'autre photo: 1 2 3 Code:
Materials needed: 1) worsted weight yarn in 2-3 colors A. orange for the beak B. Brown for the legs (or orange can be used for this as well) C. Main color (whatever you want, official varieties of chocobo include yellow, black, blue, brown, green, red, white, and gold.) 2) An f/5 crochet hook (3.75 mm) and a yarn needle 3) Black and white felt, nothing fancy, the 25 cent kind is what I used. 4) The reference photo to help with making the eyes. (http://images2.wikia.nocookie.net/finalfantasy/images/1/13/FFIX-Chocobo.jpg) 5) Fiberfill Note: Entire pattern is worked in the round, no joining. Try to stuff parts as go along before the openings become too tight to fit the filling through. Don’t over stuff, just enough to fill the shapes is fine. Body: Row1- Make a magic ring (or normal one, what have you) with 6 sc. (6) Use main color. Row2- Sc then Inc around. (9) Row3-Sc then Inc around. (13) Row4-Sc then Inc around. (19) Rows 5-6: work even. (19) Row7- Sc then Inc around. (28 ) Row8-Work even. (28 ) Row9- Sc then Dec around. (19) Row10-11- work even. (19) (Start stuffing soon if you haven’t been already.) Row12- Sc then Dec around. (13) Row13-Sc then Dec around. (9) Row14-Dec around. (5) Now, Dec one more time to bring the stitch count down to (4) around and finish it by sewing the small opening shut with the yarn. You should have an egg shape. Hold it horizontally for correct position. Neck: Ch6, join last ch to first ch to form a loop. Sc around. (5) Use main color. Row2- Sc then Inc around. (7) Rows 3-6: Work even. (7) Now, make 4 sc, turn, ch1,and make 4 sc across. Cast off (or whatever you call it when you cut the yarn.) but leave a tail for sewing to the body. I sewed the smaller end shut with the yarn, lightly (as in hardly any so the neck will be a little flexible) stuffed the neck, and sewed the larger hole side of the neck to the front of the body with the 4sc lip falling over the tip of the egg shape. Head: 6 sc in magic ring. (6) Use main color. Row2- Inc around. (12) Row3- Sc then Inc around. (18 ) Row4- Sc then Inc around. (27) Row5-Sc then Dec around. (18 ) Row6-work even. (18 ) Row7-Sc then Dec around. (12) Start stuffing soon. Row8-Sc then Dec around (8 ) Row9-Dec around. (4) Cast off and sew any opening shut with yarn tail. Beak: 4 Sc in ring. (4) Use orange yarn. Row2-Sc around. (4) Row3-Inc around. (8 ) Row4-Sc then Inc until you have 12 Sc around. (12) Row5- 4 Sc then Sc,inc,sc,inc,sc,inc,sc,inc. (16) Row6- 4 Sc then Sc,dec,sc,dec,sc,dec,sc,dec. (12) Cast off. Stuff and use tail of yarn to hold the stuffing down by threading it across the opening. (DO NOT CLOSE, just use the tail like a seat belt, got the idea?) Note: The tip of the beak should be pointing down, if it is not, simply pull the tip down manually, it will stay in place itself. To be sure it does, don’t overstuff. The point should be downwards when attached to head. Attach Beak to Head by sewing with orange yarn. (You can use the round on the head as an indicator of where the beak should go. One of the rows on the head was 12 sc and should line up perfectly with the opening of the beak.) Attach the head to the neck with the main color yarn. I placed the head slightly off center towards the front of the tip of the neck instead of directly on top of it to create a sort of curved flamingo neck look. Feet: 6 Sc in ring. (6) Use brown yarn. Row2- Inc, 2 sc, Inc, 2 sc. (8 ) Row3-work even. (8 ) Row4-Sc then Dec around. (6) Maybe put a tiny bit of fiberfill in if needed. Row5-Sc then Dec around. (4) Row6-Work even. (4) Cast off. Sew any opening shut with yarn tail. Make 2. Legs: 6 sc in ring. (6) Use brown yarn. Row2-work even. (6) Row3- 2 sc, Dec, 2 sc. (5) Rows 4-5: work even. (5) Cast off. Make 2. Lightly stuff legs at bottom, most of leg needs no filling. Attach feet to legs by sewing the closed end of the leg to the middle of the foot. The open end of the leg can be closed shut and attached to the body at the same time. (brown yarn for both leg and foot sewing) Legs go on the bottom of the body towards the center. On mine I sewed them slanting slightly forward to create a reverse knee look. (like birds) Now the crazy part. All the plumage and the wings. All of these pieces require the main color yarn. Wings: These have three layers per wing. That makes 6 pieces total for both wings sized small to large. Largest Wing piece: This is the base of the wing and is placed under the other two. As you make it, it will begin to curl like a flower petal, this is not a mistake in tension as its curve will make it conform to the shape of the body. (NOTE: chain 2's count as dc's on the largest wing piece and will be counted at the end of the row with the other dc's in the row count.) Row1- ch 4, 2 dc in first loop on chain(by the slipknot). (3) turn, ch2. Row2- 2 dc in first dc of row. Skip 1 dc, and make 2 dc in chain from the row below (which counts as a dc remember?). (5) turn, ch2. Row3- 5 dc across. (6) turn, ch2. Row4- 5 dc across, 5 dc in last dc space (the chain from the row below). (11) Cast off. Make 2. The bases of the two wings are now complete. If you do not wish to layer the wings, you can stop here and sew one each to each side of the body. Middle wing piece: this goes on top of the largest wing piece. Sew the two together when you complete it. Row1- ch3, 2 sc in chain. (2) Row2- work even. (2) Row3- Inc, ch1, 3 dc. (5). Cast off. Make 2. Smallest wing piece: Row1- Ch4, 3 sc in chain. (3) Row2- Dec, sc. (2) Row3- work even. (2) Row4- Dec. (1) Row5- Work even. (1) Cast off. This goes on the top of the other two pieces. Sew them all together at their bottoms to get a good volume effect. Once all three are together, attach the whole piece to the side of the body with the curve of the large wings facing inwards towards the body. Do this for the other side with the other wing as well. Face Feather: This tiny feather goes along the line where the beak meets the head. It goes on top of the beak between the eyes. Sew it there with a little main color yarn. Row1- ch3, 2 sc. (2) Row2- dec. (1) Row3- 1 sc. (1)Cast off, sew to head. Next is the tail. There is one long feather, two medium, and two small feathers. They are sewn together in a fan shape, largest feather in the middle, with the other feathers branching out largest to smallest. The entire piece is then sewn to the back of the body. Large back feather: Row1- ch 4, 3 sc in chain. (3) Rows 2-7: Work even. (3) Row8- Dec, sc. (2) Row9- work even. (2) Row 10- Dec. (1) Row11- work even (1). Cast off. Medium back feather: Row1- ch 4, 3 sc in chain. (3) Rows 2-6: Work even. (3) Row7- Dec, sc. (2) Row8- work even. (2) Row 9- Dec. (1) Row10- work even (1). Cast off. Make 2. Small back feather: Row1- Ch4, 3 sc in chain. (3) Row2- Dec, sc. (2) Row3- work even. (2) Row4- Dec. (1) Row5- Work even. (1) Cast off. Make 2. Sew them as described above. FINALLY, the head and chest feathers are the last pieces to crochet. The head pieces attach to the top-back of the head in a crown shape around from one side of the head to the other, the tips of the feathers pointing towards the back of the head. They are all the same size so there is no special order. Sew them down with the main color yarn. The single chest feather uses the same pattern as the crown feathers; it is placed along the seam between the bottom of the neck and the body. (If you want a bit more volume on the chest, crochet two face size feathers like the one that went above the nose. Place them along the sides of the chest feather in a fan shape. For example, you could use chest feathers to distinguish between male and female chocobo’s. Just a thought!) Head and chest feathers: For Head feathers, make 5. Row1- ch 3, 2 sc in chain. (2) Row2- work even. (2) Row3- Dec. (1) Row4- Work even. (1) Cast off. Attach to head as described above. For chest feather, make 1 with same pattern as the head feathers. Attach as described above. For the talons and the eyes, I just winged it using cheap felt. I cut out tiny little ovals and even smaller white dots and glued them to the head as shown. (You can do the white dot part with paint if you like.) As for the talons, they are made of two white triangles per talon, glued to the foot with one on bottom and one on top then pinched together. Two talons go in the front of the foot, one goes in the back. FINALLY YOU ARE DONE!!!! Moogle Code:
Method: amigurumi Tools and materials: 1.6mm crochet hook, white and pink yarn, washing sponge, black normal sewing thread, yarn needle, a piece of wire Instructions Head -magic ring, 6 stitches -increase each stitch to 12 stitches -single crochet and increase for 2 rounds -single crochet twice and then increase for 2 rounds -single crochet 4 times and then increase for 3 rounds -single crochet for the next 4 founds -single crochet for half a row then decrease and single crochet for the rest of the row -single crochet for the whole next row -single crochet and then increase for half of the next row and just do single crochet for the rest of the row -single crochet for the whole next row This should get you halfway down the head. -single crochet 5 times and then decrease for one row -single crochet 4 times and then decrease for one row -single crochet 3 times and then decrease for one row -stuff it up -single crochet 2 times and then decrease for one row -decrease until it closes Ears This is for the inner part of the ear. -pick up a spot on the side of the head and string in the yarn and make a stitch -more to a stitch and repeat -stitch the 2 stitches together -chain once and weave in the ends This is the outer part. -chain 5 stitches -single crochet 2 rounds -single crochet once and then decrease once for 2 rows -weave in the ends and don't cut the ends so that you have extra yarn to sew it to the head Nose -magic ring, 6 stitches -increase twice and then single crochet for one round -single crochet one round -stuff in up with the extra yarn ends. -sew it on the head. Whiskers -backstitch a piece of yarn at the side of the head -the ends to a desired length -fray those ends. Eyes These instructions may not be that clear so you might need to refer to the video. -pick a spot beside the nose and sew in the black thread with the yarn needle -then sew like a wide upside-down "V" -go over the "V" to make it thicker and more curved Body -magic ring, 6 stitches -increase to 12 stitches -single crochet 1 time and then increase for one round -single crochet 2 times and then increase for one round -single crochet 3 times and then increase for one round -single crochet for the next 3 rows -single crochet 3 times and then decrease for 2 rounds -single crochet 2 times and then decrease for 2 rounds -stuff it up -single crochet once and then decrease until you have a small opening -sew the body to the head Arms -chain twice -single crochet 3 times in the first stitch so that you get like a circle -continue doing single crochets for the next 4 rows.or a desired length -stuff (optional) Legs Also, you might need to refer to the video for this part. -chain twice -single crochet 4 times in the first stitch so that you get like a circle -single crochet 1 time and then increase for one round -single crochet 1 time and then decrease for one round -increase twice for each stitch for the next round Wings -chain 6 -do a row with 3 stitches, so that would be doing half a row -chain once and continue with the next row which also has 3 stitches -chain twice -double crochet once -bind and weave in the ends Pom-pom -chain 2 -single crochet 6 stitches in the first stitch -single crochet 2 times and then increase for 2 rounds -single crochet for one round -stuff it up -single crochet once and then decrease for one round -decrease until it closes up -poke on end of the wire into the pom-pom and the other end to the head That's basically my fancraft version of a moogle. I didn't include the mouth because I think it already looks good that way and partly because I was just too lazy to. You can use yarns with other colors because some moogles have yellow pom-poms and purple wings. For moogles like Stiltzkin, you'll need more yarn of different colors because that special moogle is often seen carring items and stuff. Anyway, here are the videos on how to make a cure amigurumi moogle. Enjoy! Kupo!! Creeper (Minecraft) Code:
The amigurumi was made using a 3.5 mm crochet hook and my stash of 100% cotton worsted weight yarn, colours listed below. Rounds are worked in both loops unless otherwise state. Rounds are to be joined and should not be worked in a spiral. The facial details are felt cutouts attached with fabric glue. 7 mesh plastic canvas panels were cut out and insert to reinforce edges and give the creeper a more block like appearance. While this is optional, leaving that step out will result in a much rounder creeper. SC = Single Crochet SL ST = Slip Stitch SK = Skip a stitch INVDEC = Invisible Decrease INC = Increase DC = Double Crochet TC = Treble or Triple Crochet Head part 1 (start in green) CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like. 1. SC x 8; join then CH 1; (8) 2. INC x 8; join then CH 1; (16) 3. SC, SC, INC, SC; repeat 3 more times; join then CH 1; (20) 4. SC, SC, SC then DC then TC in same stitch, DC then SC in same stitch, SC; repeat 3 more times; join then CH 1; (32) 5. SC around in back loop only; join then CH 1; (32) 6. SC around (go back to working in both loops); join then CH 1; (32) 7 – 12. SC around; join then CH 1; (repeat for rounds 7 through 12) (32) finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Head part 2 (start in green) CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like. 1. SC x 8; join then CH 1; (8) 2. INC x 8; join then CH 1; (16) 3. SC, SC, INC, SC; repeat 3 more times; join then CH 1; (20) 4. SC, SC, SC then DC then TC in same stitch, DC then SC in same stitch, SC; repeat 3 more times; (32) finish off and leave long tail for sewing. Reinforce the first part of the head with canvas, stuff then sew part 2 on like a lid. This should create a cube. Body (started from the butt) (start in green) CH 7 then in second chain from hoom 1. INC, SC x 4, INC, switch to other side of the chain and work in the opposite loop; INC, SC x 4, INC; join then CH 1; (16) 2. (work in both loops) SC, SC then DC then SC in the same stitch, SC x 4, SC then DC then SC in the same stitch, SC x 2, SC then DC then SC in the same stitch, SC x 4, SC then DC then SC in the same stitch, SC; join then CH 1; (24) 3. SC around in back loop only; join then CH 1; (24) 4. SC around in both loops; join then CH 1; (24) 5 – 14. repeat round 4 for rounds 5 through 14; (24) finish off leaving long tail to sew to bottom of the head. Reinforce with plastic canvas, stuff and pin to bottom of the head then sew in place. Foot part 1 (start in green) CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like. 1. SC x 8; join then CH 1; (8) 2. SC, SC then DC then SC in same stitch; repeat 3 more times; join then CH 1; (16) 3. SC around in back loop only; join then CH 1; (16) 4. (work in both loops) SC around; join then CH 1; (16) 5 – 6. repeat round 4 for rounds 5 and 6; (16) finish off and weave in tail. Foot part 2 (start in charcoal) CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like. 1. SC x 8; join then CH 1; (8) 2. SC, SC then DC then SC in same stitch; repeat 3 more times; join then CH 1; (16) SL ST around the square doing one CH at each corner in order to keep the SL ST from pulling the corner too taught and rounding it. Finish off then leave a long tail for sewing to part one. Stuff and pin this “lid” in place then sew using the grey yarn to sew in place. Sew legs (green top) to the body of the creeper. I hooked into the front loop that wasn’t used at the top of the foot, and single crocheted across and into the next leg, so I had a little flap to stitch to the body, since his legs aren’t really under his body but sort of in front and behind. Sewing without the flap should work fine as well though. Compagnion cube (Portal) Code:
SC = Single Crochet SL ST = Slip Stitch CH = Chain INVDEC = Invisible Decrease INC = Increase (2 SC in one stitch) DC = Double Crochet DC INC = Double Crochet Increase (2 DC in one stitch) TC = Triple or Treble Crochet Cube Panels (make 6) Start in Platinum (a medium gray colour). Work in joined rounds (join to first stitch from the round with a slip stitch and CH. The slip stitch and first CH do not count as a stitch. CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like. 1. SC x 7; (7) join CH 2. INC x 7; (14) join CH 3. SC then INC; repeat x 6; (21) join CH 4. SC then INC then SC; repeat x 5; (28) join CH 5. SC 2, DC INC, TC, DC INC, SC 2; repeat sequence x 3; (36) join then finish off and keep a long tail for sewing panels together. Assemble in a cube shape over a cube skeleton made of size 10 or 7 plastic cross stitch mesh (plastic canvas) that has already been cut and stitched together to form a solid cube. Stuff the cube prior to sewing it shut. Hold panels in place using headpins and stitch panels using a whip stitch to sew the back loops together. Circles (make 6) Start in misty gray (a light gray colour). Work in joined rounds (join to first stitch from the round with a slip stitch and CH. The slip stitch and first CH do not count as a stitch. CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like. 1. SC x 7; (7) join CH 2. INC x 7; (14) join with SL ST 3. SL ST around the circle then finish off leaving a long tail for sewing the circle to the panel Cut out tiny pink heats from felt and attach to discs. Attach circles to the center of each panel with headpins and stitch in place or fabric glue. Corners (make 8 pieces) Start in misty gray (a light gray colour). CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like. 1. SC x 6; (6) 2. SL ST into the first stitch CH 3 then DC, in the next stitch DC then CH then SL ST; that sequence creates the first nub of the three nub corner piece. Repeat the sequence twice to complete the round then finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Nubblies (make 12) Start in misty gray (a light gray colour). CH x 4 (the following stitches are worked in both sides of the CH) 1. In the front loop of the second CH from your hook, INC, in the next back loop SC, in the next back loop INC then pop over to the front loop of the same stitch and INC, SC in the back loop of the next stitch then INC in the back loop of the first stitch you worked in. SL ST to join to the first stitch and finish off leaving a long tail. Les chaînes Youtube sympa- Chaîne de cutesycrochet: Pour faire des Amirugumi rond, niveau débutant. (anglais) - Chaîne de Behold the jelly bean: Pour faire des personnages de jeux vidéo assez roxatifs (sackboy, un Luma notamment). (anglais) Vidéo d' oeuvres en crochetStarcraft Mutalisk Lexique du crochetLexique Français/Anglais. Lexique Anglais, Allemand, Espagnole, Hollandais, Italien, Norvégien, Polonais, Portugais, Suédois/Français. Lexique Français/Anglais. Dernières modifications :
|
|||||||
26/11/2011, 14h21
|
|||||||
[wiki] The topic of the knitting.
| Suivre |
|
|
Partager | Rechercher |
Surveiller ce wiki|
[-4500]
Bagnard
|
Je comprend pas ton but
M'enfin quelles sont tes perspectives d'avenir ? |
|
26/11/2011, 14h24
|
|
Alpha & Oméga
|
Il faut acheter du matériel pour s'y mettre et microtorrent ne peut rien faire cette fois, ce sera dur.
|
|
26/11/2011, 14h28
|
|
Alpha & Oméga
|
Postez les trucs que vous aimeriez bien réaliser alors non ?
Pour moi en objectif one : chocobooo Le pattern ici pour ceux que ça intéresse ! |
|
26/11/2011, 15h08
|
|
[VgS]
Alpha & Oméga
|
Topic de knitting, le premier truc post c'est du hooking.
gg. |
|
26/11/2011, 15h12
|
|
Alpha & Oméga
|
Les amis, tout ça c'est gentils. Mais comme je ne sais déjà pas ce que comprend les termes en français, ça serait gentil de pas tout de suite partir sur la langue de Shakespeare.
Deuxièmement, c'est quoi le premier TP, il faut mettre quoi dans son sac et ça se trouve où. Et vous êtes prévenues, si il faut que je rentre dans un tout petit magasin et demandé à la vieille derrière le comptoir parce que ce n'est pas en libre service, j'arrête tout de suite l'expérience. |
|
26/11/2011, 15h15
|
|
Bagnard
|
Il y a une faute dans le titre
|
|
26/11/2011, 15h26
|
|
Alpha & Oméga
|
Citation :
 edit : d'ailleurs si c'est plus les tits trucs mimis en crochet/tricot qui intéressent le mot-clé est : Amigurumi Dernière modification par Praline ; 26/11/2011 à 15h56. |
|
26/11/2011, 15h37
|
|
Alpha & Oméga
|
Citation :
Ou "Comment se faire chier X heures pour créer un truc abominable" |
|
26/11/2011, 16h00
|
|
[-4500]
Bagnard
|
C'est un choix de vie après tout
|
|
26/11/2011, 16h19
|
|
Alpha & Oméga
|
Une fois j'ai recousu un bouton sur un manteau.
|
|
26/11/2011, 16h21
|
Alpha & Oméga
|
Citation :
Par contre, je doute que ça prenne plus de trois heures à faire, dépend de la taille en fait. |
|
26/11/2011, 16h31
|
|
Alpha & Oméga
|
J'en ai trouvé des jolis trucs avec trouzmille pièces à recoudre hein alors ouep c'est pas le plus joli des chocobos que j'ai trouvé mais c'est le plus simple à faire histoire de pas se dégouter
|
|
26/11/2011, 16h35
|
|
Alpha & Oméga
|
Dernière modification par Teddy ; 26/11/2011 à 17h27. |
|
26/11/2011, 16h57
|
|
Alpha & Oméga
|
Moi tous les soirs, je fait de la couture. Je recoud mes blessures par balle.
 1-9 RZT, mon 9mm dans ta bouche |
|
26/11/2011, 17h11
|
|
Invité
|
Il est pas valide ton lien l'ami ours.
|
|
26/11/2011, 17h12
|
|
Alpha & Oméga
|
Re-uploaded
|
|
26/11/2011, 17h27
|
|
Alpha & Oméga
|
Citation :
|
|
26/11/2011, 18h10
|
|
Alpha & Oméga
|
Quelqu'un peut me tricoter un cache bite en forme d'éléphant?
Merci. Cliquez ce bouton ou survolez le contenu pour afficher le spoiler
தேடுதல் "உறைதல் தடுப்பி". கண்டுபிடிக்க என் பதில். Dernière modification par Sÿnn ; 30/11/2011 à 17h05. |
|
26/11/2011, 18h13
|
|
Invité
|
Le regroupement des geeks branchés 2.0
Message supprimé par son auteur.
|
|
26/11/2011, 18h21
|
|
Alpha & Oméga
|
Moi aussi je veux bien un cache-bite pour l'hiver.
Par contre faut bien prévoir au minimum une dizaine de pelotes de laine. |
|
26/11/2011, 18h21
|
|
Alpha & Oméga
|
Citation :
|
|
26/11/2011, 18h24
|
|
Alpha & Oméga
|
Citation :
Si c'est le cas, c'est la seule chose qui m'intéresse dans ce thread. Dernière modification par afinedayonline ; 26/11/2011 à 18h37. |
|
26/11/2011, 18h30
|
|
Alpha & Oméga
|
Citation :
Donc non ce n'est pas pour cette raison. |
|
26/11/2011, 18h32
|
|
[SOLTE]
Alpha & Oméga
|
Citation :
Tiens cadeau (je mets une tof avec un bonnet pour coller au thread) 
|
|
26/11/2011, 18h35
|
| Suivre |
Connectés sur ce fil1 connecté (0 membre et 1 invité)
Afficher la liste détaillée des connectés
|